I found this bottle of craft perry or poiré artisan on a greengrocer’s stall in an ordinary produce market in Lille, north of France. The stallholder was very keen to inform me about the perry, explaining that it was made on a farm somewhere next to the English Channel, and that perry goes very well with good food especially seafood and poultry and is in fact even nicer than cider.

The perry was indeed very tasty and refreshing, with a real taste of perry pears and a complexity that increased as it warmed up a little.

It turns out that Theo Capelle is a cider maker distillery in Normandy and describes the perry thus:

As an aperitif or dessert, and for special occasions, Théo Capelle has selected for you a fruity Perry, sparkling and refreshing.

Perry is obtained from perry pears, notably the “plant de blanc”. Plant de Blanc is a local perry pear variety which is a required constituent at at least 40% for the Appellation Control for Domfront Perry.

Ukcider member Tom Oliver of Oliver’s Cider and Perry sent in this press release:

Perry – A Curious Drink for a Slow World

For over 400 years, up until the early 20th Century, perry making was
one of the traditional crafts of the western Midlands and played an
important part in the rural economy. In the late 17th Century the
product was in significant demand and was held in high esteem
throughout the whole Country. Perry was kept for special guests and
family occasions and, when bottle-fermented, certain perries were
accepted as being comparable to a fine Champagne.

Today, in the early 21st Century, ‘true’ perry – made entirely from
genuine perry pears is now only produced in small quantities -
primarily in Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Worcestershire. These
counties can therefore be regarded as THE home of perry. It was for
this reason that in 1991 The National Collection of Perry Pears was
established at the Malvern Showground. This unique and valuable
collection contains at least one example of all the accepted vintage
perry pear varieties associated with The Three Counties – some 90
different types – many of which are now very rare indeed.

Pear Cider or Perry?

Although the “Pear Cider” is currently being used as an alternative
name for “Perry”, many would argue that ‘true’ perry should only be
made from traditional varieties of perry pears – as it was during its
17th Century hey-day and up until about 30 years ago. Pear Cider can
be made from any variety of pears, including imported pear
concentrate. A range of other ingredients are also permitted. Some
pear ciders can be primarily produced from fermented apple juice, with
pear juice added as flavouring.

In 1993 EU legislation came into force, which provides a system -
Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) – for the protection of food
names on a geographical or traditional recipe basis (similar to the
‘Appellation Controll=E9e’ system for wines). Products named as
Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Worcestershire perries are PGI
registered and, as such, the pears used for fermentation can only be
locally grown traditional perry pears.

Furthermore, the international Slow Food movement has now formally
recognised and listed, in its “Ark of Taste”, Three Counties and Welsh
Marches Perry. Such products can only be made from 100% fresh juice
from locally grown perry pears, with no artificial flavourings,
colourings and sweeteners being permitted. On behalf of Slow Food – an
organisation that aims to protect excellent gastronomic products that
are in danger of disappearing – the recently formed Three Counties and
Welsh Marches Perry Presidium (working group) oversees production
standards to ensure product quality and authenticity.

To recognise and celebrate the special association between this
esteemed product – perry – and its traditional home in the Three
Counties, the Malvern Autumn Show host’s the International Perry
Festival, which is being held as part of Festival of Food & Wine in
the Avon Hall. A number of participatory events are planned, which
include:

• Tutored tastings of speciality and rare perries in the Cookery
  Theatre …. and …. your chance to vote for the products you most like
  for the “Peoples Choice – Perry” award;
• Perry sales and tastings on a number of producer stands;
• An opportunity to meet and talk to local perry producers and
  members of the Three Counties and Welsh Marches Perry Presidium;
• A display of all fruiting perry pears in this challenged year
  … plus …. an opportunity for anyone to bring in a sample of pears for
  possible identification;
• Expert-led orchard walk around the National Collection of Perry
  Pears with Chris Fairs (Bulmers) and Charles Martell.
• Cooking with perry and serving perry with meals – tastings and
  recipe ideas.

There will also be a range of other perry related exhibits and
exhibitors on hand to illustrate the wonderful heritage and diversity
associated with these fine products. You will be able to find out
about future perry-related activities, events and even courses to help
you to help you learn more about perry and – indeed – become a perry
maker yourself.

On whichever of the days you are visiting the show, we would like to
welcome you to the Avon Hall. Be there.

Cider Apples

The number after the name indicates the flower
season. The months shown indicate the normal
harvest time. The quality of the juice is described.

ASHTON BROWN JERSEY, 4, November,
bittersweet. Orange yellow striped. Small trees.

BACKWELL RED, 3, September, medium sharp.
Bright red flush. Small trees

BREAKWELL’S SEEDLING, 2, September,
mildly sharp. Dark red flushed on yellow fruit. Small
to mediumsized tree.

BROWN’S APPLE, 3/4, late October, full
sharp.Medium sized tree.

BROWN SNOUT, 5, November, sweet, mildly
astringent. Fruit yellowish green with some
russeting. Small to medium sized tree.

BROXWOOD FOXWHELP, 2, September/October
medium bitter sharp.Small red apples on a small tree.

BULMER’S FOXWHELP, 2/3, mid October,
medium bitter, full bodied.Red apples on a small tree.

BULMER’S NORMAN, 3, late October,
bittersweet.Green yellow. Medium to large.

CHISEL JERSEY, 4, November, bittersweet.Red
flushed fruit on a medium sized tree.

CRIMSON KING, 3, November, bittersweet.Green
yellow flushed scarlet. Medium to large.

DABINETTE, 4, late October, November bitter
sweet. Yellow flushed dull red. Small to medium.

DYMOCK RED, 2, late Sept. bitter sweet. Dark red
flush.Small to medium.

ELLIS BITTER, 4, late September, October
medium. bitter sweet.Red flush. Small-medium.

FILLBARREL, 3, November, medium bittersweet.
Red flushed. Russeted. Small.

FREDERICK, 3, mid-October full sharp.Dark red
flush. Small.

HARRY MASTERS JERSEY, 3, November, bitter-
sweet.Yellow flushed dark red. Medium.

IMPROVED RED STREAK, 2, October, bitter-
sharp.

KINGSTON BLACK, 3, November, sweet.

MAJOR, 4, late September, bittersweet.

MICHELIN, 3, late October, medium sweet.

MORGAN SWEET, 3, August. A prolific pale green
early apple, once widely grown for eating in August.

NEHOU, 2, September, bittersweet.

NORTHWOOD, 2, late October, sweet.

PLUM VITAE, July/August, dual purpose,
Cider/Dessert.

PORTER’S PERFECTION, 2, November,
bittersweet.

REINETTE D’ORBY, 2, November, medium sharp.

SHEEP’S NOSE, 3, September-October, Cider/
Cooker

SOMERSET REDSTREAK, 3, October, bittersweet.

STEMBRIDGE CLUSTER, 4, full bittersweet.

STEMBRIDGE JERSEY, 3, October, medium
bitter-sweet.

STOKE RED, 4, late October medium bitter sharp.

SWEET ALFORD, 3, November, sweet.

SWEET COPPIN, 2, November, sweet.

TAYLORS, 1, October, mild bittersweet.

TREMLETT’S BITTER, 1, October, bitter.

VILBERIE, 5, November, bittersweet.

WHITE JERSEY, 5, late September, medium
bittersweet.

YARLINGTON MILL, 2, October, sweet, mildly
bittersweet.

Perry Pears

These are also grown from Long Ashton virus free
stock. We offer half standards and standards.

Perry Pears live to a great age and grow into large
trees, their massive branches and trunk rivalling
those of the oak, and their timber is much sought for
furniture making. A full account of their history, with
over fifty varieties described and illustrated, is
available in ‘Perry Pears’, a Long Ashton monograph
(1963), (copies available).
The numbers and months refer to flower and
harvest times.

BARLAND, 4, late September.

BARNET, 5, early October.

BLAKENEY RED, 3, late September.

BRANDY, 4, October.

BUTT, 3, early November.

GIN, 3, mid-October.

GREEN HORSE, 2, mid-Ooctober.

HELLEN’S EARLY, 3, September.

HENDRE HUFFCAP, 2, early October.

JUDGE AMPHLETT, 1, late September.

MOORCROFT, 2, late September.

OLDFIELD, 2, late October.

PARSONAGE, 2, early October.

RED PEAR, 5, October.

SWEET HUFFCAP = HELLEN’S EARLY.

TAYNTON SQUASH, 1, late September.

THORN, 2, late September.

WINNAL’S LONGDEN, 3, early October.

YELLOW HUFFCAP, 2, early mid-October.