There is often discussion amongst cider makers as to whether it is
best to use a wine yeast for fermentation, or just to let the natural
or ‘wild’ yeasts of the apples themselves do the job. I like my cider
to be entirely a product of the apple and for me this means that it is
essential to use apple yeast.
I came to this conclusion some years ago on reading of the work
carried out in England by Lloyd in 1894. He studied the effect of
inoculating apple juice with various yeasts, both from wine and from
cider apples such as Kingston Black. He found that the ciders so
produced could be distinguished from each other by their aroma and
bouquet. The juice fermented by the wine yeast had acquired a vinous
character, whereas those fermented with the Kingston Black yeast
produced a series of ciders corresponding in character to the true
Kingston Black product.
In my own way I have proved to myself that there is something in this
theory. In August each year I collect the early apples from my
orchard. These are mostly eaters at this time of the year, the
majority of them being Discovery and Tom Putt. It is of course too
early for Kingston Black. I select only those that are perfectly ripe
and wholesome, wash them thoroughly and then make a few gallons of
their juice. It is gorgeous to drink, but I make myself put a couple
of demijohns of it aside to turn into cider. I add one Campden tablet
per gallon as a precautionary measure and then just leave the jars to
ferment. About 4 weeks later, I begin the pressing season proper with
the early season cider apples. By this time, the demijohn ciders are
well advanced. Their yeasts have multiplied, they are fizzing well and
the airlocks are merrily plopping. I pour them into the juice of my
first main pressing. They then become the starter for the main blend
and their characteristics are thus permeated through out all the cider
that is made throughout the season.
It is a big leap of faith, but it works well for me. Over the last 4
years that I’ve been doing this, I’ve found that my cider is
remarkably similar to that of previous years. It has the same
marmalade colour, and virtually the same taste, aroma and body. This
happens in spite of the fact that the blend of varieties and the
weather throughout the ripening season, inevitably changes from year
to year. Other cider makers tell me that this phenomenon is due to ‘in
house yeasts’ on my equipment and within the ciderhouse itself.
I prefer to believe that those late summer yeasts from my orchard have
a lot to do with it!
Rose